Everything worth knowing before you choose a pearl: where each kind comes from, how pearls are judged, which size and length suit you, and how to keep them glowing for a lifetime.
Every cultured pearl grows inside a living oyster or mussel. Which one, and where, decides its size, its color and its glow.
The largest cultured pearls, grown in the silver-lip pearl oyster. Ours run mostly from 10 to 16 mm, in white and silver tones with a soft, satiny glow.
Grown in the gold-lip pearl oyster, golden South Sea pearls range from pale champagne to deep gold.
Cultured in French Polynesia in the black-lip pearl oyster, in colors from silver and charcoal to peacock green and aubergine.
The classic round pearl, known for its bright, mirror-like luster. Ours run from 5 to 9 mm.
Cultured in freshwater mussels, in a wide range of shapes, sizes and soft colors.
Pieces that pair pearls of different kinds, such as white South Sea with Tahitian or golden pearls.
Seven things decide how beautiful a pearl is, and what it is worth. Luster matters most.
The glow, and how sharply a pearl reflects the light. Fine luster looks bright and mirror-like, with crisp reflections; low luster looks soft and chalky.
Nearly every pearl carries small marks from its time in the oyster. The fewer there are, and the harder to see, the finer the pearl.
Perfectly round pearls are the rarest. Drops, ovals and buttons are lovely for earrings and pendants, and baroque pearls, each one different, have a charm all their own.
A pearl's body color is only the start. Look for its overtone, a soft tint that floats on the surface, like the rose on a white Akoya or the green on a peacock Tahitian.
Nacre is the pearl itself: thousands of thin layers that the oyster lays around a small bead. Thick nacre gives a deeper glow and lasts for generations. Freshwater pearls usually grow without a bead, so they are nacre almost all the way through.
Measured across, in millimeters. Larger pearls take years longer to grow, so they are rarer. See the size guide below.
In a pair of earrings or a strand, the pearls should agree in size, shape, color and luster. Close matching takes many pearls to choose from.
Pearl size is the diameter in millimeters. Here they are side by side, drawn to scale.
5–7 mm, delicate: fine everyday studs and dainty pendants.
8–9 mm, classic: the size most people picture when they think of pearls.
10–12 mm, statement: pearls you notice across the room.
13 mm and up, rare: almost always South Sea or Tahitian.
Where a strand or chain sits changes the whole look. Princess length is the most popular and suits almost every neckline.
| Name | Length | Sits |
|---|---|---|
| Collar | 12–13 in | High on the neck |
| Choker | 14–16 in | At the base of the neck |
| Princess | 17–19 in | Just below the collarbone |
| Matinee | 20–24 in | At the top of the neckline |
| Opera | 28–35 in | At the breastbone |
| Rope | 36 in and up | Long, or doubled |
Pearls are softer than gemstones, and they ask for very little: a few good habits keep them glowing for a lifetime.
Put pearls on after perfume, hairspray and lotion, and take them off before anything else.
A soft, dry cloth takes off skin oils and makeup before they dull the nacre.
Keep each piece in its pouch, away from harder jewelry that could scratch it. Lay strands flat so the silk doesn’t stretch.
Take pearls off to swim, shower or wash up, and never soak them.
No ultrasonic or steam cleaners and no chemicals. A soft cloth is all pearls need.
Strands worn often are best restrung every year or two, with a knot between each pearl.
